Saturday, 31 January 2009

Hi.
Nothing exciting to tell you because I spent the day in bed yesterday, virus, hot, cold, hot. It was a beautiful day & I slept through it. I have been out for a couple of hours this morning, but it's cold & I still don't feel 100% so I've come back & will probably go back to bed & read.

Thursday, 29 January 2009

I have walked alot again this week.
First I went towards the railway station in search of three churches but I actually visited five. One of them was the one featured in the book Miss Garnet's Angel. It was this book that gave me the inspiration to spend a period of time here - longer than a vacation. The Church was wonderful & in a very quiet Piazza. I had difficulty photographing the Church due too water levels.
I also have two books, one given to me by a lady I have been on the art study tours with & is Guide to Venetian Domestic Architecture. 12th to 15th century. The other book is called Hidden Venice.
I am visiting & photographing as many as possible. It is so interesting seeking them out & they take me down narrow calle's away from the tourists. It is great because they give walking a purpose & I look carefully for all these hidden gems.

I tick them off, make comments and am now keeping a photo log to remind me exactly where the all are.

I came home to take a phone call & then walked in the opposite direction, the sun came out & I have had a wonderful day. I finished off sitting on a bench on the Zattere people watching.

Who knows what more surprises I may discover?

Wednesday, 28 January 2009

I entertained my first guests for dinner last night, the vicar & his wife. The meal turned out well, especially when I brought in the plates - I had put everything on the table but those! I cooked a gold plated chicken - it cost Euros 12.50! I couldn't believe the price. I had eight items & the cost was over Euros 40. Conversation flowed & I found out a few more things to visit.

The tides are very high at the moment but if one way out is flooded I can go the other way.

Monday, 26 January 2009

Next Venetian observation: Fur coats.
There is no anti fur lobby here. Everybody is wearing fur coats, hats or wraps. Some smell of moth balls when it gets warmer inside! The coats are worn casually with jeans or the old ladies are dressed to the nines with hats, full makeup & dripping jewellery!

Well tonight was different. The room was extremely full over 250 people. I guess it's legal capacity was 150 max!! The only fire exit was blocked by a table & two ladies selling books. This is Italy. who cares about rules & regulations. The two people in front of me kept talking. even after I told them to shut up! People were looking & I didn't want them to think it was me. Then the guy next to me started heckling.... & the number of phones that went off.... I was glad to get out.

So different from the highly organised & beautiful service for the Week of Christian Unity that I went to in Basillica San Marco last Friday evening. All the clergy from the different denominations were present & who cared what they were saying when I could look around & admire all the gold mosaics without being told to move along. Plus the gold screen had been turned around for us. An honour.
At the end of the service everyone was invited up to the altar & given a candle, I was stood within inches of the screen. The lady who kept beconning me to move closer to the altar was at the service I went to on Sunday morning - I recognised the fur coat, hat & bright red nail varnish. She had no English but also remembered me from Friday, she asked what denomination I was from & when I said Methodista she said bellissima - the best! Can't argue with that!

Just called in at the wine bar on my way home & had delicious ciccetti & a glass of red wine. Now I must go & heat the mushroom soup I made yesterday with the leftover mushrooms from last night's risotto.
This morning the water was high again & the duck walks were out in Piazza San Marco. Not too deep but in some places too deep to walk through.
It has been a beautiful day here again & looks settled for the week. I did think I might take off for Bologna for a couple of days, but it is forecast rain there so I'll stay here.
Today I have visited the Museum of the Basillica, some great paintings, the picolo museum of Vivaldi & Church no 3 of 12. That was a delight, much smaller than most of the churches here, lined in marble & a beautiful madonna & Child alterpiece. I called first at the news stand, the guy just handed me HELLO, laughed & carried on talking to a lady! Then I went to a favourite bar for a coffee & croissant to have a read. There a waiter asked me what I wanted but one of the ladies behind the counter told him! I am getting known.

More obserervations on the venetians.
Well they love thier pooches & pamper the, There are nearly as many pet shops as handbag shops! There are lots of signs saying dogs not to foul the streets - but you have to watch where you walk. I have not seen anyone cleaning after them! Then they dress them in coats, hair slides & ribbons, allow them to sit on seats & twice they have been in Church. They didn't go for communion but I wouldn't have been surprised if they had!

Since I got back I have done housework & just had a drink (peppermint tea) & a sit whilst I talk to you. I think I will go & clean the bathroom before I get ready for this evening. A lecture on the islands in the lagoon - in Italian. Prosecco is served afterwards so I have that to look forward to.

Caio caio caio (realised italians say it many times to thier friends)

PS Tried twice to post photos & after 45 mins got an error, so it will be more written thoughts till I get it sorted.
Weekends seem a challenge for getting & staying on line. I think the mobile networks must be exceptionally busy. I have no problem during the week - hence no posts since Friday.

Well I have had my first floods over the weekend. When I went out Saturday morning the canals were very high & I had to paddle through a couple of inches of water to get around the corner to the Zattere. Sunday the water was higher and I couldn't have got around that way. I was going the other was it happened so no problem.

I looked out last night about 11pm the water was yet higher, almost to the door of the boatyard.
It doesn't look just as high this morning!

Beautiful day, off out & post more tonight.

Friday, 23 January 2009

Those little bleep mozzie bites drove me mad last night. I have now got 15!!!
Visited the 2nd of the twelve churches. I had a very long walk through Castello to see it, then got the boat to the Lido for lunch.
Back on the Zattere it was a beautiful afternoon & I sat on a bench & read for over an hour. Bliss.

Thursday, 22 January 2009







Left to right
The beautiful coloured houses of Burano. Painted brightly so the fishermen could find thier way home when the fog came over the lagoon.
Looking towards Burano from Torcello.
A canal on Torcello.
I don't believe it, there are not supposed to be any mosquitoes alive at this time of year - but I have got SIX bites. They have driven me mad overnight. Off to buy cream!

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

Well I have had a new challenge this evening.

The Italians get cold calling on the phone. I have had two very interesting calls. No I am not Maria, no she will not be here if you call tomorrow. Must learn what call back in three months time is in italian!


From the left The Church at Torcello
Gondolas on the lagoon
San Marco from Santa Maria del Salute



Another (wet) day in paradise. It is much warmer, but I prefered the cold.



Today I bought the ticket to visit 12 Churches in the city & visited the first - S. Maria Formosa. From San Giorgio Campanile it is huge. Some lovely paintings.
I also bought shoes with high heels. Two weeks of boots has been enough.
Next time I go the La Fenice I will chaqnge into heels on arrival.
The cloakrooms are free so no problem to leave the boots.
The weather looks wet for a few days but snow & sun in Bologna, so I may head there at the weekend.
Differences uk - Italy -- I continually hold my hand out for change & it is put on the counter! I still feel irritated. I willl know I am Italian when I accept & am prepared for this.







The gondolas on the San Marco basin

Sunset over the Zattere

Campanile of San Giorgio

Well I am getting used to life in a rented apartment. This has been a real culture shock for me. As someone who has always lived at home or had my own house I have never lived with other people's choices. The kitchen is quite a challenge. What will go into the oven? Although this is for two people all the cooking dishes & pans are huge. At home I have the correct pan or dish for everything I cook. Here I have to adapt. There is also just one of some things, eg wooden spoon, knife, no servers. I have bought a small ovenproof dish - don't know how I would have cooked small things without it & a small non stick pan. The cafetierre I bought has been a disaster & is broken after three days. I will have to come to grips with the Italian version!

Then there is the fight with the ironing board! I can't get it any higher than 2 feet off the floor. OK for t shirts but difficult for king size sheets! I feel like the hunchback of notre damme by the time I have finished. I have more ironing today! Groan.





Left to right
An amazing pic of Piazzetta San Marco empty of tourists!
Rio San Barnaba, on my way to the supermercarto

Tuesday, 20 January 2009







Left to right
St Mark's basin from the top of San Giorgio campanile
Looking up the grand canal from Accadamia bridge
Looking toward San Barnaba from grand canal
I have lots of pix to post, will add a few each day.

I am now feeling like a Venetian. It takes most of the morning to walk to Campo San Margherita, buy fruit & veg, have a cafe americano, battle the supermercarto!
Now there's a challenge. I was 20 minutes the other day deciding which flour to buy for a sauce! I don't even regognise the labels to make a guess at what things are. I try to buy something different and new each day. There are some wonderful cheeses, I bought one today which is somewhat like a cream one. Delicious with bread. I love watching the assistants wrap & pack each one, it is an art form.

There are some wonderful cake shops, and they are packaged so beautifully. There is a sweet pasta dusted with icing sugar, the size of sheetsof lasagne pasta mmmmmmmmmmmm.

At the wine bar nearby they make cichetti, venetian tapas, they are award winning & delicious.

Enjoy the photos.

Monday, 19 January 2009




Picture 1 is of the Zattere, the promanade by my apartment. it is a lovely place to walk or sit in the sun and read or people watch. My place is just beyond the Church
No 2 is of the Zattere from the vaparretto.
No 3 is of the full moon over the Grand Canal & Rialto Bridge.

Saturday, 17 January 2009

Well I have been in La Seranissima for almost two weeks.
Some of you may be wondering why I haven't posted a new report before this.

I could say I have been swept off my feet by a gorgeous Italian, but the truth is the blog here turned into italian. Tonight I have had a message as to how to correct it.
So here I am.

The apartment is great - well it is now I have had a cleaner in! The two of us spring cleaned and got the pplace sparkling.

I have joined a Yoga class, Helga is a great teacher & I am loving it. Yesterday she brought me a mat to borrow for the period I am here.

Last Sunday I went to Church & met some interesting people & found out about a meeting on a Monday called Circolo Italo Britannica. They have spaekers & the one last week was speaking about her campaign to improve the rights of widowed women in Nigeria. Eleanor was a wonderful, passionate speaker & I was enthralled for the hour. Afterwards when I was speaking to her I found out her son had gone to Ashville College in Harrogate. heather & Steven lived next to the playing fields & Heather has taught there! small world.


Saturday, 3 January 2009


The packing has begun!
The case is getting fat.
Well heavy.
No I don't quite have the kitchen sink in there....yet.
Less than 48 hours to go.